There are many roads around the world capable of vying for the title World's Greatest. From the scenically spectacular - Australia's Great Ocean Road, say, or California's Pacific Coast Highway; and the exciting - Italy's Stelvio Pass and Mount Fuji’s Touge roads; through to the dangerous - Bolivia’s Yungas Road or, for that matter, Germany’s killer Nürburgring. But we’ll wager that the most joyfully sublime route of them all is right here in the UK: Scotland’s northernmost coastal and highland roads.
It’s become known as the North Coast 500. Some call it Scotland’s Route 66; a 516-mile loop from Inverness to the tip of the isle and circumnavigating back. It’s popular in Summer with supercars, caravans, bikers and cyclists, each tackling it at their own pace but pausing regularly to absorb the cracking views.
We suggest starting with lunch in Inverness at Albert Roux's restaurant at the Rocpool Reserve Hotel, overlooking the River Ness. With Chez Roux’s signature lemon tart and a double espresso in your belly, you’ll be ready for an epic road trip.
Drive the route anticlockwise and you'll find the scenery just gets more and more spectacular. Take the A9 out of Inverness, cross the Black Isle, named after its dark farming soil, and pass the Dalmore whisky distillery to make your way up the east coast. Oil rigs in the Cromarty Firth can be made out through the side window, camouflaged between the battleship grey sea and sky. Peel off momentarily at Balintore to visit the Mermaid of the North, sitting 10ft high on a rock and carefully positioned so that locals can check the tide as her tail becomes fully submerged.
Pass the turreted Dunrobin Castle and continue along the A9 until Dunbeath. Take the A99 and keep an eye out for dolphins. At Wick, you may wish to visit the five-storey 15th century Ackergill Tower. Transporting you back in time, this castle (which has lately been used as a filming location for The Crown) is stocked with interesting antiques and furniture, taxidermy and tartan, and boasts an enchanting vista of coal-black rock stacks and crashing waves. Elsewhere on the 3,000 private acres you’ll find Europe’s largest and most luxurious tree house. Until recently, the property was a five-star hotel beloved of car manufacturers, but has now passed into private (American) hands. Nevertheless, you’ll be amazed by the kind of access a Portofino M affords.
A short drive from Ackergill is John O'Groats where a signpost points to Land's End, 876 miles to the south west. The A99 becomes the A836. A few miles later, you may choose to stop at the Castle of Mey, where the Queen Mother headed when she needed to get away from it all. Alternatively, rent a board at Dunnet Bay, a surfer's paradise. Thurso is Scotland’s most northerly town and its granite-fronted high street will be the last proper hub you’ll see till returning to Inverness.
Swap the A836 for the A838 at Tongue. Having skirted glistening lochs and caramel beaches, you’ll head south at Durness and into ever more wondrous landscape. The mountains of Foinaven, Arkle and Quinag are almost within touching distance, but separated by boggy and rocky moor. At Laxford Bridge, swap the A838 for the A894. Stop at the 16th Century ruins of Ardvreck Castle and accost Highland cattle. Switching suede Italian driving shoes for wellies will feel like something of a metaphor.
You may wish to spend the night in the small fishing port of Lochinver, on the A387. Shaped like a policeman’s helmet, Suilven rises 731m above the town and is one of the most distinctive mountains in the country. Perched on an opposing hill, The Albannach is a cozy boutique hotel with just five bedrooms but plentiful snugs, and benefits from Britain’s northernmost Michelin-starred restaurant.
There's still 234 miles to go. The scenery, unbelievably, continues to improve. Take the A835 south, stop at the Rhue gallery in Ullapool to view landscape paintings by local artists, and then take the A832. Through South West Sutherland, you will pass the dramatic peaks of Canisp, Cul Mor and Ben More Assynt. This Geopark consists of some of the most ancient and unique geology on the planet, dating back three billion years. Park at Gruinard Bay, and admire its rocky coves and unusual pink sand leading out to island-studded waters.
Past Gairloch, you’ll skim the ancient volcanic peaks of Assynt and drive through Caledonian pine forests. Take a right after Gairloch and the village of Kerrysdale to visit the independent Badachro tiny-batch whisky, gin and vodka distillery. A little further south, off the A896, is The Torridon. A Victorian shooting lodge turned five-star hotel, set in 58 acres of parkland, its Scots pine-panelled dining room serves acclaimed food straight from the local land and loch. Ferrari North Europe
Sixteen miles south along the same road is the Kishorn Seafood Bar, a sky-blue log cabin at the head of Lock Hishorn, with spectacular views of the Cuillin Hills and Applecross peninsula. Fresh and simply-served, it’s renowned for its hand-dived scallops, oysters, plump mussels, langoustines and squat lobsters.
The twistiest part of the journey is the Bealach na Ba mountain pass. The views across to the Isle of Skye here are incredible and it feels like you're on the edge of the world. At Applecross, look out for bobbing seals.
Careful of the fog that often descends on Beinn Bhan mountain, for the drops are sheer. Once back on the A832 you’ll be able to put the hammer down and the threescore of these final 516-miles will flicker in the rear-view mirror.
2Old Military Road, The Cairngorms
Old Military Road, The Cairngorms
The Cairngorms is the UK's largest national park and home to four of its five tallest mountains. Through it blasts the Old Military Road, which should be savoured like the finest single malt.
This 80-mile stretch of road, which cuts through the ski station at Glenshee, is accessed by heading north towards Perth and then picking up the A93 towards Blairgowrie. The landscape begins to rise after the Bridge of Cally where this fast-flowing A-road becomes something of a rollercoaster. The most spectacular stretch is the Cairnwell Pass which, at 670m, is the highest public road in Britain. The Cairnwell chairlift at Glenshee Ski Centre runs throughout the summer, till the end of September, if you want to top the views you've already been enjoying from the car. Skiing itself starts from 19 December.
Follow Shee Water down through its long valley to Braemar, home of the Royal Highland Games. Nine miles beyond Braemar you'll skirt Her Majesty's summer home, Balmoral Castle, back into the wilderness. Here, take the narrow B976 that climbs up over the moor. At Rinloan / Gairnshiel Lodge, the road splits in two. Take the left, the A939 baring north, which still counts as the Old Military Road. The road widens after a while, giving you a little more room to breathe. There are some steep and thrilling hairpins to be lapped up towards the second ski station of the trip, at Lecht, followed by a sensational plunge down the other side of the mountain. The road is engaging to the last and finally spits you out at Granton-on-Spey. The whole thing should take just over two hours driving, plus stops.
The most stylish lodgings along the route are to be found at Braemar's Fife Arms. Owned by the international art dealers Hauser & Wirth and decorated like a stage set, it’s packed full of stunning big-name works, from a Picasso portrait to Richard Jackson’s neon, glass and antler chandelier. A Louise Bourgeois spider stands on the inner terrace. A tiny watercolour of a stag’s head in the foyer was painted by Queen Victoria, who originally used this place as her guesthouse while staying up the road. It’s artfully contrasting.
The Fife Arms' Flying Stag public bar is jolly and noisy, serving the best beer-battered fish n’ chips in the Cairngorms. Elsa’s Bar, named after fashion designer Elsa Schiaperelli, is pink, art deco and tiny. The Clunie Dining Room is theatrical and provides arguably the finest brunch in Scotland. Head chef Marcus Sherry’s dinner highlights include locally foraged girolles and generous cuts of Aberdeen Angus.
Just to the south of Balmoral you’ll discover the Royal Lochnagar distillery, where they’ll welcome you with a wee dram or, if you prefer gin, hold on to the finish line at Granton-on-Spey to visit the Balmenach Distillery, home of artisanal small batch Caorunn Gin. Tours are twice daily, so do book ahead. It would be a fitting end to a spirited drive.
3A82 From Dumbarton to Glencoe
A82 From Dumbarton to Glencoe
Driving a Ferrari on the A82 towards Glencoe, it's useful to know that Italy's version of MI6 is called AISE (Agenzia Informazioni e Sicurezza Esterna), because this is the road that James Bond calls home. Which nation's secret agents have the better company cars is open to debate.
The A82 starts north west of Glasgow, drives past Dumbarton, and then burrows its way along beautiful Loch Lomond and The Trossachs national park and onto Loch Tulla and the high plateau of Rannoch Moor. Ruler-straight sections give way to an asphalt helter-skelter ride. The vast, peaty moor is positively Tolkien, and narrows towards the Toblerone peak of Buachaille Etive Mor; a lone pyramid guarding the entrance to the valley.
Take the unnamed left before the mountain, running along the River Etive, in search of a 007 photo op. Glen Etive is one of the most stunning spots in all of Scotland, once only visited by kayakers, but since it served as a layby for Daniel Craig and Judy Dench in Skyfall you'll find a number of Bond aficionados trying to recreate their own DB5 moment.
Back on the A82 and approaching Glen Coe itself, the road wiggles its way through black volcanic rocks, steep cliffs and foamy waterfalls. Stop and admire the giant shoulders of the Three Sisters mountain range, and tip the piper in full Highland dress who's there every day of the tourist season.
From here the road rolls downhill and in ten minutes or so spills into Glencoe Village. You may wish to stop at the Clachaig Inn before you reach the finish line for some venison carpaccio and game pie. This pub and hotel dates back to the 16th century. A sign on the door reads ‘No hawkers or Campbells' in wry reference to the Massacre of Glencoe of 1692.
Other comfortable lodgings directly along the route are to be found just before Loch Tulla at the Bridge of Orchy Hotel, or The Inn on Loch Lomond. Both are four-star coaching inns with refurbished rooms and hearty food. They've each been welcoming travellers for 150 years, and most of the prancing horses that have visited have required tying up.
Pictures are for illustration purposes only and may not be specifically representative of the exact locations mentioned in the text.